Questions and Answers #3 -- I don't want to breed, just have a group of colorful birds to watch!

"I don't want to breed canaries;  I just want a colorful group to watch!"
When I hear this comment, it sends chills up my spine. 

Most often people who start out by saying these words end up coming back for more birds in a year or two!  "I don't know what happened.. they just seemed to die one at a time.  Oh, it was heartbreaking!  It will be so much fun to have a cage full again!  I want to buy another dozen!"

There go the chills again!  I am learning to say NO to these people. 

One local lady had a very pretty corner acrylic-enclosed aviary, medium to small sized.  She owned larger birds such as Amazons and cockatiels, each in their own cages with lots of space and play tops.  But she put 8 canaries, one hen and seven males, in her 'small' acrylic 'aviary'.... and watched them chase that poor hen mercilessly, continuously.  One by one the males were found dead or fatally injured.  Finally, the lone survivor at the end of a year's time died too.

When she came back for more canaries, the first time, I dropped some very obvious pointers that maybe a bachelor's-only house would be best suited.  Nope, she wanted that little hen too. 

A year passed, and when she came looking to buy again, I told her no.  And I didn't sugar coat it with half truths about not being ready to sell.  I told her I was not sending my birds home with her to their certain death.

LET ME TELL YOU THIS TRUTH:  Even if YOU have made the decision not to raise young canaries, your birds will not understand!  Instinct, as Nature intended, tells them to nest, lay eggs and all of the other behaviors of reproduction, including territorial fighting!

These behaviors include building nests, laying eggs, and mating with the opposite sex.  These behaviors are perfectly harmless... even laying eggs.  A hen is so happy and content building a nest, and then incubating eggs.  She won't mind at all if you replace her real eggs with any type of small fake egg or marble. You can leave the nest and fake eggs under her for two or three weeks or until she decides the eggs won't hatch.  She will be a little thin after sitting on the nest with no activity.  But, that is just the cycle of nature and she will gain weight soon enough.  If she wants to nest a second time, put the nest back in and swap the fake eggs for her eggs.  She will be happy, doing what she was born to do.  :)

However, some behaviors of birds in a group are destructive!

Canaries, both males and females, are territorial by nature, in the wild.  Wild song birds are also.  We see wild birds flock together for migration, but nesting adults are separated by yards, often miles in some species.  We've all seen robins dive bombing cats, dogs and other birds that get too close to their chosen nesting space.

So, multiple males together in a flight will fight!  Even hens will tear into each other over a favorite nesting spot or perch.  And no cage or flight, no matter how large, can duplicate the wide outdoors in allowing space to get away from competing birds.

Because they are COMPETING!  Nature provides an instinct for survival, for defense, and for aggressive behavior to scare away other birds that would compete for a mate, for food, for that quiet hidden perch on which to relax and sleep.

These instincts, natural urges, will vary with the seasons.  A group of mixed sex canaries may co-exist calmly during the winter, when they are in their natural rest period.  But, as soon as the longer days of spring come, their hormones will switch to breeding mode.  Males will begin chasing the hens and fighting with each other.  Hens will fight with each other over nesting spots or to be first at the seed dish.

Canaries chasing each other all around the cage or flight are NOT playing tag!

The answer?  Rather than debate and wonder about how to build the flight larger, it is WISE to BUY a colony species, such as finches that prefer the comfort of a group all together. If you must have canaries, a group of all hens or all males MAY (?) get along  better if they are the same sex.  A pair MAY (?) get along most of the year, but not necessarily always. Be prepared to remove any aggressive bird, male or female into a separate cage.

Temporary solutions include: put in MANY perches, at different levels, so competing birds do not have to look at one another.  Put in fake greenery to subdivide the space, allowing one male to be quietly eating out of sight of any bird looking for a fight.  Use multiple feed dishes, also at different heights or out of sight.  Use multiple water dishes and bath dishes.  

I repeat:  Birds of the same sex may co-exist peacefully together during the winter and during the molt.  But keep an eye on their behavior:  as soon as their hormones say it is Spring and time for breeding, there will be fighting, serious fighting!

Questions & Answers #1 --- Letter to an American Singer buyer

Topics in this post:

• Hens laying few or no eggs.

• Chicks dying at week of age.

• Increasing egg laying and fertility.
  

• Color Intensity really is Feather Type.
  

• American Singer song varies with individual bird.
  

A customer searching for American Singer canaries had a few questions and I am sharing my thoughts with my blog readers.  I reference articles and show results found on the American Singer Club website.

Dear M---,

Q  #1)  When I asked WHY you wanted American Singers, you said you wanted yellow birds.  And you were disappointed when a breeder sold you dark birds including heavily variegates and a green self.

First, American Singers are not predominately yellow.  The American Singer canary is a cross between a German Roller and an English Border Fancy.  The American Singer canary comes in all colors and melanin, including clears, variegates, and self birds in yellow and white grounds.  There are provisions for red factor colored American Singers and I have seen cinnamon birds on winners lists in the past 20 years.

The point show score system points does not give points for color, and there is to be no preference by judges for color.  If you look over the list of recent show winners, you will see a few clear birds, but many more self or variegated birds.  You may be interested in looking over the current year's list of winners at the ASC song contests in 2021.

Second,  there is the term of 'yellow' being used for hard feather type, or it may be called intensive. 'Buff' is the term for the soft feather type.  Traditionally, most canary breeds and types are bred with a yellow (or hard feather) bird paired with a buff (or soft feather) bird.  

The purpose of breeding 'hard/intensive' to 'soft/buff' is to produce the best possible feather qualities.  A hard feather bird carries color to the very edge of the feather, and produces a tight smooth line.  A soft feather bird will have a paler edge to the feathers, and produces a more fluffy, rounded outline.  Pairing one of each type does keep a very nice feather and carries good bright color in both feather types.

I think this is one important aspect of breeding that is most often ignored by novices and more experienced breeders alike, of all canary breeds!

An article on the American Singer Club website is quoted as "Some breeders claim we have bred the yellow out of our American Singers..." and goes on to describe a buff - rich description of feather.  I agree with this, and have seen the buff - rich effect in my own American Singers.  For a good, short article on this topic, see Yellow Ground Color in Canaries.

Buff/Soft Feather

 

Intensive/Hard Feather

All breeders have personal preferences for different song notes... AND for birds with certain appearances or color.  Of course , that is as it should be.  But to say:  'American Singers should be yellow' is not a part of the American Singer Club constitution.  At the very beginning in the 1950's, song contests were divided into color classifications, but within a few years, the classes in song contests became Old and Young.

Yellow Variegated Buff

Cleaning and Disinfecting Things In Our Bird Cages

I have always used a very dilute bleach solution to soak watering tubes, feed dishes, nests, and etc.
The use of bleach is a topic of debate among bird owners.
I have experimented with bleach, vinegar, citric acid, botanical/natural disinfectants and various soaps to wash bird cage accessories.

My usual method is to pour a few 'glugs' of bleach into a shallow sink of warm water, to a level to cover the water tubes, and leave them to soak for a couple hours or overnight.  I rinse each well under the faucet, keeping the original bleach water in the sink and letting the rinse water fill the sink.  I then add the feed/seed saucers to soak.
I don't soak the wooden perches, but do use a scouring pad and the bleach water to clean them.

• Actual 'soap' may leave a cloudy residue on the dishes, if left to soak die for longer than an hour.
• Rinse well.  I don't skimp on running clean water.
• I have a complete second set of water tubes and cups.
  This means I can soak, rinse and let dry one set while the other set is in use in the cages.

I decided to do a little research to learn more about the proper use of various cleaners and disinfectants.

I first looked for mixing instructions for a handful of common ingredients.  Then I found the time needed for effective cleaning.

• Heavily soiled and built up debris should be removed/rinsed before soaking.
• BLEACH:
  1 TB to 1/2 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water
  Soaking for 10 minutes is effective.
• VINEGAR (5% white vinegar):
  1:4 vinegar to water for general cleaning
  1:1 vinegar to water for heavier cleaning.
  Soaking/remaining wet for 1 hour is recommended.
• CITRIC ACID:
  2 TB per quart of warm water
  Soaking for an hour is recommended.
• BOTANICAL DISINFECTANTS, using thymol oil:
  Most are Ready To Use products.
  Keeping wet for 10 minutes was the average time for effective disinfecting.

I have used all of the above, with success. I have also used hand dish soap, which seemed to rinse off well.
I dump out the 'dirty' water in a water tube every day, and put up clean ones weekly.
Unless there is algae growth, or something slimy in the bottoms, an actual disinfectant is not necessary, but it does make all the cage dishes look clean.
We have a private septic system, so I am careful to use the strongest 'antimicrobial' cleansers sparingly, to prevent problems with our septic tank and drain field.

Seed Moths -- Cause, Prevention, Eradication

Moths and other bugs in our seed, and bird rooms, are NOT FUN!
Here is my post on Facebook, for a few hints on the subject.

"And the greatest of these is Love."

There are many reasons people own a canary ..... or two birds, or more!
I have talked with many 'canary people' over the past dozen or so years.
I may be looking for new birds, or someone is inquiring about any extras birds I may have.

Many are breeders:  some with half a dozen pairs, many with hundreds of birds in their flock.
Some are older people, who have found the comfort and pleasure of having a singing companion.
Others are young parents, wishing to introduce their children to bird keeping.

These people own a canary for many different reasons. 
Often is is to add yet another breed or species to their collection.
A few have dreams of being well-known in the bird show world.
A great many are thinking of the dollar value of the youngsters they will sell!

It is just my opinion, but the best reason to own a canary is because you love the beautiful little creatures. There is nothing wrong with all other possible reasons for keeping a canary, but

the greatest benefit you will gain
is the personal enjoyment you experience every day!

I know those who own canaries because they love to watch them --- are the most interesting to talk to!
If the second question a person asks is "How easy are they to sell?" OR most of their conversation is about taking birds to sell at a show, our conversations usually tail off into silence.
If the breeder is excited about training and exhibiting a bird, with breeding goals to work toward, our phone calls often become quite expensive! 😆

Please, keep canaries because you love them,
not because you dream of becoming rich and famous!

Below, I quote Matt Eld's words in Episode 3 of The Canary Room, which prompted this blog post! 

 

My Canary DIET RESEARCH --- Finished!

I spent the past three months working on serious research into diets for canaries.

I am sharing my notes, and the most interesting portions of my study, as well as what I learned!

Please begin on Page One!

- Page One - I Began With The Basics
- Page Two -  Information I Found Most Interesting
- Page Three - Experiments and Comparisons (with photos)!
- Page Four - I Decide For and Against Some Popular Foods
- Page Five - Specific Brands of Seed/Supplements,  plus my revised Soft Food Recipe  

I encourage everyone to do a little Canary Diet Research of your own!

I have added the best 'diet references' and web articles to the

Canary Seeds page of links.

The FIVE Things That Guide My Bird Room

There are five things that I think are most important in my canary hobby.
I thought it would be fun to share my priorities;  have you thought about your Canary Goals and Priorities?

• Keep the JOY in my canary-keeping!
• Healthy Environment for myself and the birds
• Keeping the Four Seasons in my bird room.
• Quality Water
• Proper Diet

First, I need to ENJOY the time spent in the bird room, and cannot rush through the 'chores'!  I am continually tempted to keep too many birds!  The thrill and pride in a 'Collection' are always sitting on my shoulder, telling me just one more pair won't be too many!  I admit I currently have TOO MANY BIRDS!  Extra time spent in the bird room is time taken from my family and other work.
Secondly, old-timers used to talk about Bird-Keeper's Lung, but most of us don't think of ourselves when we are talking about HEALTH.  I buy this or that vitamin supplement.  I make sure my seed is fresh and grind my own soft food mix.  I buy water that is pure.  All those are for the birds.

➽  I also have several air purifiers!  They are for MY HEALTH!  When they are turned on, there is obviously less white 'feather dander' on the windowsills, blinds, floors, and furniture in the bird room.  I am also breathing in less!  I cannot say enough good things about the air purifiers!  I love them.  I fear developing allergies, and being unable to keep canaries;  wouldn't that be terrible?
Right now, I have one purifier in the bird room.
Below is the pre-filter, which I clean every two weeks.  It is completely covered with the white dust.  I had no idea there was so much until I began running air purifiers!

(Increasing the number of baths for the birds will also decrease the amount of dander.)
Other things to do:  a vacuum stirs up less dust into the air than a broom.  An open window introduces fresh air for me as well as the birds.  Wearing gloves while cleaning cages reduces my exposure to disinfectants/cleansers as well as bird waste.

Tips on Photographing Your Birds

We all love to share photos of our birds!  And there are many different types of photos:  some people like to catch their birds in their everyday activities, such as flying, eating or nesting.  Sometimes, we want to show off the shape or color of a particularly beautiful bird.

Of course, we want these photos to be perfect!  Considering how active birds are, our photographs often fall short of what we had hoped to capture! I have found good instructions on a few web pages, and have found a setup that works for me. There are other good methods, and I am always looking for ways to improve my canary photos.

Here are a few of my best tips
and I will add links to the informative webpages following the photos.

• A smartphone WILL take good canary photos, but there are differences between the camera on your phone and a good digital SLR camera.  If you experiment with your smartphone camera, you will find little tricks that give you good photos.
• Strong lighting and a clear or uncluttered background do make the photos more striking.
• I have found that a combination of both natural window light, not necessarily direct sunshine, with a small lamp works the best, for me. (Photo #4)
• Having the camera lens touching, or very close, to the cage wires forces the camera to focus on the birds inside.  My cellphone camera lens has a view that actually fits between the 1/2 inch spacing when I am very close to the cage wires.(Photo #7)
• If you cannot get very, very near the cage wires, it is better to move back one foot or more.  At that point, both the cage and the birds inside will be in focus. (Photo #5)  If you are close, but not close enough, to the wires, your camera will want to focus on the wires, and not the birds inside. (Photo #6)
• A single perch at the far end of the cage will encourage the bird to sit in one place.  Even a nervous bird will return to the perch.

Photo #4

Photo #5

Photo #6

Photo #7

Links to good informational webpages below......

Less IS More

Less IS More

    The morning "coffee crowd" is busy chirping away, squabbling over broccoli bits, and I
imagine them gossiping about their neighbors. I am in the bird room, taking a break from work,  sipping my cup of Joe as the happy conversations of the canaries fill the room.
     My chair is squeezed into a small space between a floor-to-ceiling flight and a stack of
breeding cages. From here, I can see most of the room and am watching the flights of
youngsters, taking notes on their behavior.
    In the beginning of this 'bird obsession' I call a hobby, my bird room had a very different
appearance. There was room for a rocking chair with footstool, a small table for my coffee and notebooks, with hanging plants and lace curtains at the window. But as the number of birds grew from 6 pair to 40 pair, the space for "non-essentials" shrank.
    Last year, I spent three hours in the birdroom each day, plus washing water tubes, seed
dishes, and nests added two more hours each week. I spent the time sweeping, feeding,
banding, and cleaning cages I would rather have watched the parents feed their chicks or sat next to a young male with personality to listen to his first teenage song.
    I am trying to remind myself why I bought my first bird, and the things that I most enjoy. I don’t regret the hours spent in the bird room, but if I kept fewer birds, I’d have more time for play rather than work.
     Less is more. Simple is better than complicated. That principle works for many things.
    Whenever I am asked the question: 'What do you feed your birds?', my answer is
always the same: less is more. I am not talking about putting your birds on a diet. I am talking about keeping things simple rather than complicated.
    The basic diet for all cage birds begins with just a few guidelines. And these principles
apply to a single bird companion, or a bird room full of breeding pairs. Their food must provide nutrients to keep them healthy and be clean and fresh. The diet should be items we can buy easily and, let's face it, must also be priced within our budgets.
     Keep it simple. Some bird breeds have special requirements, but all need protein, fats and carbohydrates. The different types of seeds contain all of these, but in different proportions.  Many bird breeders mix their own seed types; others buy a bag of premixed seed for their general type of bird. It can be fun to do the research and make your own mix, but in all honesty, a packaged mix designed for your bird's breed will fill their need for seed.
     Pellets are popular and contain seed products with other nutrients. Personally, I like to begin with the seed and add supplements and other foodstuffs. Somehow, I keep comparing myself to the birds, and I would much rather eat a variety of interesting foods than a bowl of concentrated All-Food flakes, even if it was a complete meal.
     Seed only supplies a portion of their nutritional need, so we add other items. Following the example of the songbirds outside our homes, our indoor pets will benefit from green leafy vegetables, carrots, green peas, cucumbers and others such as seeds from a green pepper. Feed a small amount, lightly chopped or grated. You can feed these every day, or as an irregular treat on the days you have more time.
    At various times throughout the year, our birds need additional protein and supplements.  During breeding, while feeding chicks, and during the annual molt, add a small amount of animal or plant protein. This can be mashed hard-boiled egg, mixed with whole wheat bread crumbs, or soy protein, mealworms, or sprouted seed. Here again, you can buy packaged foods or prepare them from scratch. There are powdered vitamin-mineral supplements created to be fed separately in a small dish or sprinkled onto the soft mix.
    Now take that simple diet of seed, vegetables, and make sure every bit is fresh. Don't feed stale seed. Don't feed wilted veggies, and don't let the protein mix spoil, if you use moist food.
     Maybe you enjoy creating a complicated diet for your bird. I admit to real satisfaction when I have mixed a bowl of mashed hard-boiled egg, grated carrots, and dried bread crumbs.   Even the crumbs are from bread that I made specially for the birds. But if you keep the list of ingredients small, and you use the same mix every day, you will find it saves time. You can spend several of those saved moments to watch them enjoy their meal.
     Speaking of happy birds, back to my birdroom. One young opal male is perched right up against the front of his cage, very still and watching me. He trills lowly, insisting that I feed him a special  treat. He will eat broccoli and he received a portion with the rest of the room. But he really desires a few flakes of oatmeal, which I always feed him after he asks politely.
     I must keep that opal male, because he returns my affection. So, add one more to my growing list of keeping birds. Less is more? If only I could simplify my Bird Life.

Q: What plants can I grow in my own garden to feed my birds?

A: We can grow many of the vegetables for our cage birds. Some are very easy, such as

green leaf lettuces, kale and carrots which are commonly grown for our own tables.

Other vegetables are more demanding. Green peppers can take three months to grow to full

size. Cabbage and broccoli are often attacked by insects, so I cover them with special netting to keep the butterflies out. Cucumbers are an example of the plants that need lots of space to ramble as they grow.

Don't forget to pull dandelion leaves (from lawns that are not sprayed or fertilized). They are a special treat much enjoyed by my birds.

The Best Advice for Your First Canary

I was fortunate to have received GOOD ADVICE when I was buying my first canaries, from several breeders and hobbyists.  Their words of wisdom have proven helpful since that first day I put my new birds into a cage in my house, and to this day are the basics I follow every day in my bird room.

To those who are thinking of getting a Canary Companion, and to those who have emailed with questions, I will pass along the tips and instructions that I feel guaranteed my enjoyment of canaries as companions and exciting 'housemates'.

# 1 -- The very first TIP:  find a breeder or hobbyist to talk to personally.
If you can find someone close enough to visit, by all means do so.  If you must look online for a 'canary mentor', there are many places to find someone willing to help.  And don't give up if the first person just wants to sell you a bird.  I found three or four breeders online who took the time to ask ME questions about why I wanted a bird, what experience I had, and just what I was hoping to get as a perfect companion.

This person will also be very helpful after you get a canary.  If it appears sick or you have questions about it's behavior, you have that person to contact for an immediate answer.  The right person can be a very enjoyable friend in this new venture into Canary Keeping.

And who knows, you may find a kindred spirit in the process!  I have found several wonderful, interesting people, of all levels of experience raising canaries, whom I count among my best friends.

# 2 -- The second TIP:  buy a bird in person, if at all possible.
You may not find a canary breeder locally, but don't overlook the small hobbyist who may only have a few for sale.  They may have birds more used to daily and individual attention.

If you can see more than one canary, acting normally in an average size cage, you will be more likely to see the differences in personality and activity... and of course, you can hear differences in song.  Many breeders do not allow visitors into their main bird room, but will usually have their birds for sale in an area open to potential buyers.

This was a learning experience for me!  And invaluable!  I learned more in those two hours spent in Bruce's birdhouse, than the days spent reading all those books.  Just observing how they were fed, how their perches were set up, what area of the house they were in, etc.  was wonderful.  Of course, listening to the breeder talking about his birds and their differences was enjoyable --- and his enthusiasm was infectious!

So, PLEASE, search for other canary people within visiting distance, even if you buy your final bird elsewhere!

# 3 -- Third TIP:  Read, read, and read again!
You can find advice online for nearly every topic.  There are many canary associations and clubs with articles on their websites.  There are forums and groups exclusively for canaries.  Browse them all.

And don't forget books.  Some canary books that read like textbooks, but I have found others that are great entertainment besides giving helpful information!
( My Favorite Canary Books by Debbie )

# 4 -- Remember this next TIP:  There is NO ONE PERFECT WAY to care for a canary.
If you asked the same question to 50 canary people, you would get many different answers, and each person is convinced that way is the only way.  Remember, when someone says a certain way is the only way, what he really means is, it is the only way for him.

Everyone's home, climate, daily schedule, and even time spent with the bird will be different.  And what YOU want from a canary companion may be entirely different than everyone else!

# 5 -- TIP number five:  Have fun!  
The basics of having a canary in your home are pretty simple.  And the rewards are so very many!
*** Some of my favorite links: Seeds of Canary Information
*** My Personal Advice: Canary Care Sheet (pdf)

Do your birds need a Life Coach?

I'll wager you never thought of introducing a 'Big Brother' ( or Sister ) into a flight of youngsters.
The idea of a Song Tutor is well known in the song breeds, but I am talking about an older bird to act as a leader for young canaries of any breed.

Choose a calm, forgiving adult that goes about his business and ignores all the antics of the 'kids'.
I said 'his'... but I have seen both males and hens who get along well with others.  Of course, if he also has a good song, the youngsters may imitate him in that area as well.

I have one male who is worth his weight in gold simply for his calm, unflappable personality, and he also eats any and all seed mixes, new food items, and veggies.
He loves taking a bath and he never 'spooks' at loud noises, sudden movements, or strangers near his cage.  When I put him in a cage with youngsters, soon, they are following his example!

So, think about your birds, and see if there isn't a 'wise one' among them, and next summer, don't forget to try him as a Life Coach.

Can Canaries Share a Cage? and No, He Won't Be Lonely!

You may think:  what a strange question!  Of course, canaries can share a cage!
Yes, they can share a cage... in fact, you can put many canaries in a cage.
Remember our grade school language lesson:  'Can' means you are physically able; 'May' means you have permission and it's a good idea!
In many situations, two or more canaries can co-exist in the same cage.  I've heard of two male canaries living peacefully in the same small cage for years.  Only one would sing at a time.. one did not sing much until the other one died.
My dad had a pair who lived happily side by side also for years.  Recently, my mom bought a pair, and they did not exist peacefully!  The hen was the Boss, and would not let the male eat until she had eaten her favorites and was full.
I've seen birds who died of a broken heart soon after their mate passed away.
One lady had a beautiful aviary and tried many times to set up a flock of multiple canaries.  Time after time, they fought and squabbled until all were dead but the strongest one.  How sad.

PLEASE watch your birds.... please separate any that have personality conflicts! 
Some canaries will peacefully share a cage.... others will not stop fighting, picking feathers, keeping others from eating... often times until one or more are dead!

Are you thinking:  won't a single bird be lonely?
Like other companion pets, such as cats, one bird alone will attach itself to you, if you give it any attention at all.  If you have more than one canary, they will be more interested and entertained by each other, and won't be as devoted to you!  Just like a two-cat household.... what trouble one doesn't think of, the other one will!
A cage that is in a room where people spend time, such as a kitchen or living room, is ideal for a single canary.  Make sure you feed him everyday, and that is all the time and attention he needs.  He will appreciate and respond to more time spent talking to him, feeding him treats, or having your chair close to his cage.  But if you have a busy schedule, throw away the cups that hold feed and water for a week... and simply give him seed, water, and treats every day.

Here are two interesting articles to read, and then make your decision of how many birds to buy, how many to put in a single cage, and how a canary or two will fit in your life and your house!

And read this article:

Canaries are particular about their Territorial Rights!

Watch your flights of youngsters....!!!!!

Please watch your young canaries, especially if they are in groups in flights.
There is always some noise as they flock to the seed dishes, with hens bickering.  Young males will often compete for a favorite perch. 
Some of these disagreements become out and out battles.  You notice tattered and broken feathers.
Other times, a weaker bird may simply be kept from eating and drinking.


I watch for a few minutes each morning for a couple of days, and can usually pick out the ones that are starting these conflicts... and they are moved to their own cages.


This advice comes from another breeder:  as you begin to see which are hens and which are males, separate them by sex.  She says this is one way to 'keep peace'.
http://canarytales.blogspot.com/2011/09/this-years-hatch-puffing-up-in-flight.html

May in the Bird Room -- Month by Month Journal

May
Month by Month
Journal
=============
COMMENTS are enabled for these journal posts so please jump in with your advice or questions!
---------------------------------------------------------------
Things went well this month!!
      I do return my seed mix to the 'basic mix', instead of the enriched mix with all the 'goodies' I have been feeding for a few months.  The reason:  I don't want to push my hens too hard.  I don't want them laying larger than normal eggs, more eggs per nest than normal, or laying too closely together.  Each hen has her own 'schedule'... some hens lay an egg every day... other hens wait a day or two between producing eggs.
     I feel a hen that has been fed a healthy, strong diet will lay properly.  : )  I do continue the Ioford and DufoPlus combination.  And of course, there is cuttlebone and mineral powder in their cages.
    As they begin hatching clutches, I am careful to provide eggfood to parents twice a day.  I feed as soon as possible in the mornings, and again late afternoon.
    The precautions about spoiling egg or soft food are something to remember! 
    I do several things that I think help prevent my eggfood from souring:

• Each time I add fresh soft/egg food, I remove any food remaining from previous feeding.
• I wash the dish at least once a day.
• I prepare the soft food immediately before serving to the birds. DO NOT SAVE the food in your fridge.  You may freeze small amounts in freezer bags, pressing out excess air before placing in the freezer.  It crumbles apart while still frozen, and may be placed in their cage frozen.  
• Use fresh ingredients... including eggs and any other ingredients. Do not use any greens that have spoilage, oats that have been in a warm cupboard for months, or eggs that are anywhere close to their expiration dates.
  I use eggs from my own hens, and I am very fortunate that I know how many hours old they are!  : )
• I feed in small, flat dishes with low sides... such as dipping saucers, lids such as spaghetti sauce or pickle jar lids, or espresso cup saucers.  I have heard of breeders using small paper plates, the plastic lids from Pringles chip canisters, etc.
  These flat containers let any left over food dry out... rather than stay moist!  This extends the time the food remains edible and does not need removing immediately.
  I would not recommend re-using the dried leftovers!!!

Record Keeping -- Worth Your Time! (Updated 2021)

It is that time of year!  I am ready to begin breeding, and many breeders are well under way!
You may not want to think of it, or you may even laugh at it, but RECORD-KEEPING is an important part of breeding canaries!  In all aspects of animal breeding, record keeping is a tool to improving your herd or flock.
By using records, you can pair birds that produce strong and beautiful offspring.  You will be able to keep the best for your own bird room, and you can be confident of your advice to other breeders buying your birds.

• Observation of youngsters is important, but only IF you actually take notes!
• These notes are only useful IF you can find them when you want them, and
• IF you understand what you wrote!

Your records may be as simple as making notes in a small pocket notebook during the breeding season.  At the end of the year, enter all the information into a simple student notebook.
Or you may use a computer software program, either using a simple spreadsheet or purchasing avian breeding software.
There are many methods that fall between those two extremes.  I think every breeder will eventually work out a way to keep records that suits his/her time and expectations.
Most canary clubs offer forms, and their online websites will have forms and suggestions available.
My only suggestion is:  KEEP RECORDS of some sort!  I don't think HOW you keep the records as important as DOING it!
Here is what I am using: (links to my forms are at end of this post)

• a calendar as a place to quickly note things such as:
  when I changed diet, or lighting, or administered medication
  when I put a pair together, first egg laid, first chick hatched, when weaned, etc.
• a clipboard with notepaper to quickly note youngsters singing, older males fighting, hens plucking young, etc.
• a hatch record in the bird room, to note dates of hatching, descriptions of youngsters, with space to also note band numbers
• an identical hatch record in my bird record file.  Once a month, I transfer the information from the sheet in the bird room into the 'good record'.  The sheet in the bird room tends to get smudged!  : )
• a notebook to enter notes about each pair.  This can be a simple notebook or a three ring binder with more detailed printed forms.
• pedigrees of your parent birds.  This could be optional, as you can look up the information through the past year's records, but I love seeing the past two to four years at a glance.

Record keeping does not have to take lots of time.... it will actually save time later, maybe years breeding with pairs that do not produce as well as other pairs!
I use the following forms (links are pdfs) :

• a wall calendar
• the hatch record by the Maryland All Canary Club
• NEW hatch record by Savoy Singers Aviary 2021
  
• NEW pairing worksheet by Savoy Singers Aviary 2021
  
• a simple pair record sheet to keep in the birdroom (new to me this year)
• a year-end Pair for Year record
• parent pedigrees for each bird
  
  >>>   all of the above in a plastic expanding file

Keep records, even if in a simple notebook!

Canary 'Seeds' of Information

It is a busy time of year in our bird rooms!
We may have questions or need answers to problems.
I just updated my list of great canary links:
'Seeds' of Canary Information
and, again, I am amazed by the wealth of canary information by solid breeders!
Take a look at the list of articles, and I'll bet you find much to learn!
Also, if your favorite link or website is not listed, please send me an email, or add a comment to this post!
I cannot guarantee to list every one, but I know there are many good articles that I have not yet found!
Thanks!

The Cycle of Seasons

Required Reading List for Canary Owners

This site has other articles of interest, but this is one of my favorites!
Some of it's pages are for finches, but canary lovers will find lots of good information here.

http://ladygouldianfinch.com/features_seasons.php

Check out the 'health programs' that follow the Seasons:

http://ladygouldianfinch.com/features_healthprograms.php

The Importance of SEASONS in your canary's life

I briefly mention this in my Canary Care Sheet, and incessantly mention this in my emails/talks with new canary breeders!  It is a topic that I now have as one of the top three priorities in my own bird room.

ALLOW Seasons For Our Canaries!

When I began breeding, I was used to having the canaries' cage in our dining room.  As I bought more canaries, I moved the cages to an end of the living room near a window.
I was in the habit of watching and listening to the canaries throughout my day as I moved around the house.  My family would set newspapers on the top of the cages, when they needed the birds to be quiet while a movie played on the TV.  In general, the canaries lived with/alongside us humans.

As a result, they got up when my husband turned on the living room lights as early as 5 a.m. and went to bed when the last of the family turned out the living room lights, most often after 10 p.m.  Our bedtime hours are the same 12 months of the year.  And while we were wishing for more sleep than 6 hours each night, I now think my canaries were also feeling the effects of that long day-short night!

Canaries are one of the bird species that responds to daylength to determine breeding and resting seasons.  There are other factors in use also, such as temperature and diet.  Our wild songbirds and other finch species vary in how they respond, but we see a very clear example of 'SEASONS' in our outdoor birds, as they migrate to and from warmer climates, following the seasons, and breeding most often one season a year.  Some finches, native to different areas than our North American climate. breed at all times of the year, as diet and temperature allow.

But our canaries are one of the species that breed when the temperature is warm, food is plentiful, and the days are long, allowing the young birds to go through a short night without food.  They also have a natural molting period once a year, triggered as the days go from long in the summer to shorter days in winter.

If you own poultry, you know of the molt in late summer to early winter.  You also will be familiar with hens hatching chicks, or see chicks for sale in farm stores in the spring season.

So, let's come back to our canaries who live in a cage in our house!

If we expect them to follow our day/night schedules, they will be 'stuck' in one season.
From experience with my first canaries and from observation of other canary owners' experiences, I can describe a 'worse case' scenario of canaries living in the 'normal' activity of a human household:
The canaries act about the same all year around... singing some, quiet some, and occasionally laying eggs.  There may be more feathers falling on the floor at one or more times during the year, but there is most likely feathers falling a few all the time.

The canaries in this situation, do not go through the Seasons!  They are stuck in one artificial season.

IF you want a superbly healthy singer, or a successful breeding pair, PLEASE give them SEASONS throughout the year!

One simple solution, that many owners of single singing males already know, is to put his cage near a window in a room that is slightly away from the general activity of the household.  I have seen many people do this with great results!  In this way, he is allowed to wake up and go to sleep as he wishes, influenced as much or more by the natural light from the window as the subdued light from other rooms.

I have seen my own birds, asleep near the dark window, ignore us as we get up, turn on lights in another room, and move about our day.  Soon, I hear the birds begin to awake, get a drink and search their feed dishes for breakfast.  In the evening, with the lights out in the dining room, they retreat to their favorite perch, and go to sleep, even while we are watching a movie in an adjoining room.  They may wake up and watch me walk past as I finish chores before my bedtime, but in the dim light, and the window dark, they go back to sleep even as I am still cleaning up in the kitchen.

Since I have increased the number of canaries in my house, I have dedicated a room entirely to the canaries, and it is much easier to keep their room in tune with the seasons outdoors.  If you wished to begin breeding at a certain time earlier, it would be a simple thing to begin artificial lighting, increase temperature, and adjust diet to 'change their season' to whatever you wish.

But I am perfectly happy with my canary room lighting up with the dawn light coming in the large window, and darkening as dusk falls outdoors.

I am not saying all is perfect!

As we turn on the light in the entry nearby in the mornings, I have had to hang a curtain over the open doorway to the birdroom.  And the canaries do wake up to some degree, when they hear our activity in the rest of the house.  Plus, I am still working out when/how much to close off the heat/ac vent in  their room.  With each year in this room, I am learning what is best for my birds.

I do think they are healthier.... and I no longer have feathers 'all over' year around.  They molt at the proper time, and begin to think of breeding only after a period of rest.

I do have some adjustments to make to MYSELF!
As winter comes, I have fewer chores outdoors, so I have more time for indoor hobbies.
That means, I want to spend more time with the canaries:  experimenting with new foods, feeding treats, and dreaming of next year's chicks.
Every winter, I have to fight the temptation to begin breeding early.

I have to remind myself of the times in the early summer when I watch a tired hen building a nest yet again... watching her and the ragged male as they struggle to raise yet another clutch of youngsters.
They don't automatically stop after a nest or two!
And I want to keep the good ones, and my favorite pets, for years to come.
The sad fact is they can/do 'work themselves to death'!

Quarantine new birds... I MEAN it!

I love to talk about how different breeders and pet bird owners house, feed and care for their canaries!  But there is one topic that everyone shifts away from... none wants to talk about it!

QUARANTINE all new birds!

I recommend quarantine of all new birds, and I mean putting the new birds in a separate room, with separate seed sacks, watering containers, and other supplies.  Take care of your birds first, then feed and water the new birds.  Look at the cage papers daily, and watch how the new birds look at various times during the day.  How do they look at noon?  Do they go to sleep early?  Are they drinking normal amounts of water?  Are they eating the proper amount of seed?

Please read this article, even though it seems long.  And give it serious consideration!

The most important question you will ever answer!
https://ladygouldian.com/content/why-quarantine-new-birds